Just a note for those who are using generators for lighting. Fluorescent lights use much less wattage than incandescent. Consider getting some 4′ strip lights with T-8 lamps and an electronic ballast for temporary lighting or a supply of screw in fluorescent replacement lamps for you incandescent. A typical 75-watt incandescent lamp can be replaced it a 19-watt fluorescent lamps for almost the same light output.
Avoid T-12 lamps and magnetic ballasts. Yes they are cheaper sometimes but they are less energy efficient and are almost obsolete at this point. In about another 7 or 8 years you won’t be able to find T-12 lamps or fixtures.
Also standardize your lighting you don’t want to have to mix and match different lamp styles.
And…
Have a professional electrician install a transfer circuit. The transfer circuit isolates the the current from the generator and prevents it from flowing back out of your house into the neighborhood electrical grid. This also makes use of your (hopefully) up-to-code household wiring to distribute the instead of running extension cords all over the floors. Make sure that properly sized conductors are run between the generator and the transfer circuit. Finally: Make sure that the generator is properly grounded, that it is in an adequately ventilated area OUTSIDE OF YOUR HOUSE. Be sure to keep fuels outside and away from the house. Check the engine oil every few house of operation. replace the oil (and oil filter if so equipped) every 25 hours of operation. Shut the generator down and allow to cool prior to performing any checks, maintenance or refueling.
Make sure the generator is of a proper size for your application. Most are rated by the kilowatts (volts X amps) they produce in continuous duty. They have a momentary surge capacity that is usually between 25 and 50 percent of the rated output. Most household appliance motors are not capacitor start, and they need up to three times their rated consumption to start. For example, if a refrigerator motor uses 500 watts to run, it may need 1500 watts momentarily to start. This momentary extra load can trip the overload protection on the generator. Too big a generator can be as bad as too small. Most generators are happiest when the are operating at about 70% of their rated capacity. For example, if you have a 4kw generator, it will run best when running under a continuous load of about 2800 watts. If the generator is of too high a capacity, it will ‘loaf’, and this is bad for the engine. Start the generator at least once a month and run it for an hour while connected to a load of about 70% of its continuous duty capacity. You can use this chartto find the right appliance(s) to hook it up to.
Generators come in many different configurations of output, outlets, voltages, etc. Consult with a dealer or electrician for the one right for your intended use. I highly recommend them IF you take the time to understand their care and feeding.
I have been looking into several generator options as well. I have found that while sites such as the one Sarge posted are helpful for a general guideline, you really need to check each item you may use with a generator for that item’s actual usage. We found out our fridge and stove top took much more than we thought they would while a few other items were less.
Too bad they just cost so darn much :(
The best way to determine the actual usage of your appliances is to purchase a Kill-A-Watt meter. They are easy to use and give accurate readings of watts, amps, and voltage, plus accumulated KWH.
Appliances that produce heat from electrical resistance, like electric ranges, hotplates and coffee makers use an astounding amount of power, but it is a continuous load. It varies a little as the heating element heats up, but is otherwise fairly constant.
OTOH - electrical motors that don’t have capacitor start, which is most appliances, can take up to 3 times their rated value to start. This is important to remember, when your furnace motor and your refrigerator motor both decide to start at the same moment, and trip the overload protection on the generator. You could go mad trying to figure out why this happening if you fail to keep this principle in mind.
When your sizing your generator for the equipment you want to run consider any electrical loads that will not run at the same time. For example you would not run your furnace and airconditioning at the same time. You would want your generator to be about to run the largest electrical load, but not both.
Also could you “not run” your refridgerator while using the cooktop? How long will you use the cook top for 30~60 minutes? A cold refridgerator will be fine if left closed with minimum tempature change for an hour if your not opening and closing it much.
RNeville -
Good point - being your own ‘power company’ - i.e. off the grid, means that you have to actively plan and manage the loads. It isn’t automatic. However, with proper planning, you can stay off the grid for an extended period without too much hassle.
Closed to maintain Forum speed.